The Road to Ochrida

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The road we traveled was clear and easy to follow. It curved around long hills that had no trees. Goatherds, people living a simple life similar to the goats, sat by small fires to stay warm. They looked at us with curious eyes, and their dogs, which looked half-wolf, growled and jumped in front of our horses, acting as if they wanted to attack A Day in the Bazaar.

The Hills and Villages

Across the valley, we could see hills that rose gently. Between the trees, there were small villages that looked beautiful from a distance, but seemed unwelcoming up close. The hills, like the ones we were on, were barren and not good for farming. However, the cracks and valleys in the hills were filled with green plants, thanks to the many streams coming from the mountains Customized Istanbul City Tour.

The Captain’s Warning

“This is a dangerous place,” the captain of the guard said. “The hills are full of brigands (bandits). We are getting close to the village of Kazanihu. Everyone there are brigands. But don’t worry, you’re safe with us—no one will attack while we have soldiers with us!”

The Villagers as Brigands

Even though the captain said the villagers were brigands, they didn’t seem very scary. They were thin, dirty, and wore ragged clothes. They looked weak, and I doubted they could attack a mule caravan, let alone a group of soldiers.

“The brigands have gone into the hills,” the captain explained. “We might see some later. Do you have a revolver?” I think he was trying to show that without him and his soldiers, the life of a single foreigner wouldn’t be worth much.

A Close Encounter with the Goats’ Dogs

While the horses rested for a few minutes before we started a tough climb into the hills, I decided to take a short walk. I had barely walked a hundred yards when two fierce goat-dogs ran toward me, barking and looking ready to attack. I reached for my revolver. In situations like this, the first thought is often to shoot. But I remembered some advice from a British Consul, who had told me never to shoot a dog belonging to an Albanian goatherd unless I was ready to shoot the master as well—because he would shoot me in return. Then I remembered something I had read: a dog will never attack a person who is sitting down.

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